Seed Starting 101: My Workflow
Now that you’ve chosen your container, your soil mix and determined the needs of your seeds, it’s time to plant them. After starting seeds for a few years you’ll develop a work flow that works for you, but it can be beneficial to see how others do certain tasks. You might learn something interesting, or learn a new way to do something. Today I thought I’d share my system. Usually in January I’ll sit down and figure out a schedule of when all the different kinds of plants need started. (Here’s a nice spring planting calculator thanks to Skippy’s Garden). I do this each year and adjust by my previous year’s experience (for example, I like to start onions about a month early to allow for slow germination that can happen with onion seeds).
The first thing I do when I’m going to start some seeds is to figure out what I’m going to be starting. Since each kind of plant has a schedule for how many weeks before frost they need to be started, you don’t start everything at once. Usually it’s onions/leeks first, then a few weeks later, broccoli/cabbages, then peppers/tomatoes, etc. Knowing what kinds of seeds I’m starting also helps me choose what cell size I plan on using in my flats.
This also helps with seed organization, I organize them by type and by season (so spring brassicas & fall brassicas, etc). I can get out a folder and all of that kind of seed is in there and I don’t have to worry about checking which ones I plant in the spring and which ones get planted in the fall. I also don’t have to sort through my entire seed stash to find all the tomato seeds, they’re all in one folder. For more info on my seed storage/organization system see this post.
Let’s say I decided to start onions first. I fill 2-3 seed flats with 2 inch cells full of my homemade seed starting mix. I add boiling water and wait for the soil to become well moistened. Then I pour out the excess water standing in the bottoms of the trays and set them aside to seed in a day or two. This allows some of the moisture to evaporate, you don’t want to the soil to be too soggy!
The next day I add 3-6 onion seeds per cell (with some vegetables that have a higher germination rate, like tomatoes and cabbage I only use one seed per cell, I’d rather have empty cells than several plants in each cell). Make sure to label well, especially if you’re planting different varieties in the same flat, I usually do one or two rows of each variety (in the case of onions I do entire flats of each variety). I then sprinkle some seed starting mix over the seeds to cover with an eighth of an inch of soil mix (experts say to plant a seed 1 to 1.5 it’s width) and I spray the dry mix with a spray bottle to moisten it. Sometimes I add a clear plastic dome, sometimes I don’t, depends on the type of seed and whether I have one available. If I’m using a heating mat I definitely cover with a dome to conserve heat.
The flats are then put under a grow light or on the front porch if the weather is nice and I watch for the first sign of germination. When I spot the first signs of life, the dome comes off, this helps avoid dampening off and other diseases. If the weather is nice stay on the front porch where they will get sun for most of the day, I only move them inside if it’s supposed to be too cold. This saves me time since I don’t have to harden off the plants come late spring, which can take a lot of time and effort! When the tomatoes get their second set of true leaves I transplant them into larger pots and when the weather turns nice they get planted in the garden. I watch my trays of seedlings and only water when the soil is dry, allowing the soil to dry out helps keep them healthy.
What’s your seed starting routine? Any great tricks you’ve learned?
The rest of the Seed Starting 101 Series
Why Start from Seed
Getting Started
Containers
Soil Mix
The Needs of Seeds
My Workflow
Diseases and Problems
Hardening Off
Transplanting
Learn More Each Season
Visit my Amazon store to see what seed starting supplies I like.
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Quote of the Day: Henry David Thoreau
“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.”
~Henry David Thoreau
I try to make sure I’m aware of things when I’m working out in the garden. When I am I often see some of the most beautiful things. I’m particularly fond of seeing spiderwebs around the gardens, quite beautiful and beneficial!
Are there any simple things you find beautiful?
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Update on the Garden Pond
Last week I told you about the new pond we were adding to the garden. We’re quite excited about it and were waiting for the right time to fill it! I didn’t want to use city water and I wasn’t about to use the water from my rain barrels until I knew some rain was on it’s way. Last Friday night was the night, we were out at midnight emptying our rain barrels into the pond since a huge rain storm was coming. On Monday I went out to plant a waterlily in the pond and I spotted two toads already enjoying our new water feature! (more on planting a waterlily later).
When you live a half hour from everything, you always plan your errands on the same day to save time. Yesterday we decided to spend the day Holden Arboretum with my parents and figured we’d stop by the pet store on the way home to buy some gold fish for our little pond.
We didn’t want to invest in expensive koi, especially since these cheap feeder goldfish often do better. They will help control mosquitoes and provide some beauty in the pond. We’re hoping at least 3-5 of them survive (we bought 10), I’ll keep you updated.
We arrived home at sunset with just enough time to float them in the water for 30 minutes before setting them free. Of course it was too dark to take photos them. I can’t wait to check on them today!
Anyone else have experience with fish in a small garden pond? Anything new and exciting going on in your garden?
The Seed Starting 101 Series will resume next Monday.
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Seed Starting 101: The Needs of Seeds
The most important thing to pay attention to when you’re starting seeds is the needs of each type of seed. Not all seeds are created equal. Some need light to germinate, others need darkness. Some seeds need warm soil, others need cool soil. Some seeds need a cold spell before being able to germinate, others need some heat. Some seeds do better if they’re scarified, which is the scratching, breaking or softening the tough seed coat. You need to research and figure out the needs of the types of seeds you’re trying to start or you will be disappointed with low or no germination.
Plants are like anything else so the #1 rule for seed starting is to: READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PLANTING. There’s nothing more frustrating than seeding a tray of alyssum and then remembering that they need light to germinate, and of course you covered them with soil. Most plant packets contain all the information you need, with planting depths, light requirement, stratification or any other special needs. If you bought heirloom seeds, or traded seeds with someone, Google will provide you with a wealth of information about that specific type of seed. This is the best way to ensure proper germination and a happy gardener!
The second most important thing when it comes to good germination is to MAKE SURE YOUR SEEDS ARE FRESH. Since seeds are a living thing, although dormant until given the right conditions, they need to be treated with care and they have a shelf life. Different kinds of seeds have different shelf lives, some last for years and years others for only a year or less. If you save seeds past their normal shelf lives you risk low or no germination, which is frustrating! If seeds are stored properly their shelf life will be normal and if stored in the fridge or freezer you can save them 2-5. I wrote a post about the shelf life of seeds already, you can download this chart from my Flickr account if you’d like a copy.
You’ll also need to DETERMINE IF YOUR SEEDS NEED LIGHT TO GERMINATE. Some seeds need light, others need darkness, some don’t care either way. Hollyhocks need light to germinate, that’s why I floated them in water in my kitchen windowsill. It seems that the smaller seeds need light for germination, so they need to be sown on top of the soil. Tomatoes, peppers and other vegetables don’t really care, these seeds are covered with soil when planting (1-1.5 times as deep as the seed).
FIND OUT IF YOUR SEEDS NEED WARM OR COOL SOIL. Some seeds need warmth to germinate, like tomatoes and peppers. Others prefer cooler soil, like spinach and lettuce. Often the conditions the seeds prefer are just like the conditions the adult plants like, which is nice because it makes it pretty easy to know. When I’m planting cool vegetables I often sow seeds in the flats and put them on the floor of the basement, which keeps the soil about 55 degrees. This is perfect for lettuce and spinach. If I’m seeding warm soil vegetables, I put the flats on a seedling heat mat or in a warm spot, like the top of the fridge. I’ll often put these trays outside on warm sunny spring day, this warms the soil better than anything, especially when using the dark plastic trays with a clear dome. Of course they’ll need carried back indoors when the temperature drops at night. Here’s a great chart that lists different vegetables and the germination rates depending on the soil temperatures. With a little searching on-line you should be able to find specific information for each kind of vegetable. And don’t be afraid to experiment, seeds are cheap. Seed two flats and try putting one outside and one in the house, after a few years you’ll learn what methods work best for what you’re growing.
You’ll need to DETERMINE IF YOUR SEEDS NEED A COLD SPELL TO GERMINATE. If your just starting vegetable seeds you probably won’t have to worry about this. You’ll need to learn once you graduate on to other seeds, especially fruits, and wild plants, they often require a certain length of cold before they will germinate. You will need to mimic the natural conditions for these seeds. It’s not difficult, all you need to do is plant the seeds in a tray, water and put the tray outside in January or February (if you live in a cold climate) and they’ll germinate when the weather is right in the spring. You can also put the in the fridge, but I never have room and the porch is much easier! It’s easiest to germinate these types seeds in their final planting place, especially plants like joe-pye weed and milkweed. Simply gather wild seeds and sprinkle them in your garden in the fall where you’d like them to grow. I’d recommend lightly covering with soil and marking them so you know where you planted them. It would tragic to pull all the seedlings in spring when weeding, then realize they were the seedlings you planted 5 months ago!
SOME SEEDS DO BETTER IF THEY’RE SCARIFIED, which helps the seed break through it’s hard outer coat. Some common vegetables like squashes germinate better if their seeds are scratched or nicked before planting. Others prefer to be soaked for a few hours to soften the hard seed coating, like nasturtium and peas. Some seeds also prefer to travel through the digestive system of a bird or animal before germination, like strawberries, blackberries and other fruits. I don’t always scarify seeds, but I like to ensure the best possible germination so I usually try to remember. With squash seeds I usually rub them on an emery board lightly on the flat side and the edges, and I soak peas, beets, and nasturtiums for a few hours before planting. Scarification isn’t always necessary as a cold spell is for some plants, but you’ll have better germination if you do it.
Lucky for us edible gardeners, most vegetable seeds are ready to germinate. All they need is water and warmth and they’ll spring forth with their tiny green shoots ready to propagate their kind. Once you have great germination rates with vegetables, try moving on do seeds that need stratification and try your hand at those. I enjoy starting vegetables that are easy, but I also enjoy the challenge of starting other more difficult things from seed, like ladies mantle, joe pye weed and soapwort.
Any great tips on the needs of seeds? Have you ever had to stratify, scarify or do anything special for seeds?
The rest of the Seed Starting 101 Series
Why Start from Seed
Getting Started
Containers
Soil Mix
The Needs of Seeds
My Workflow
Diseases and Problems
Hardening Off
Transplanting
Learn More Each Season
Visit my Amazon store to see what seed starting supplies I like.
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Seed Starting 101: Soil Mix
After choosing your containers, you’ll have to decide what kind of soil mix you want to use for you seed starting efforts. There are all kinds of options: store bought soil less mix, home mixed medium, soil blocker mix, coconut coir, and peat pellets. There are all kinds of ideas floating around about what you should use for starting seeds. Some people say you shouldn’t use compost in your seed starting mix, others say you should because it’s good for the plants. Some people are against peat for environmental reasons and claim coconut coir is the way to go. Some people prefer the convenience of peat pellets or store bought soil less seed starting mix, some people mix up their own.
Here at Chiot’s Run I like to mix my own and I have since the beginning. With the amount of seedlings I start I’d spend a fortune on starting medium if I bought it. After trying all kinds of recipes I settled on one that consists of 40% peat moss and 40% medium vermiculite and 20% worm castins (I’ve tried using coconut coir and haven’t been as happy with the results as I am with peat moss). I like to add some Dr. Earth Organic Starter Fertilizer as well (I use the directions on the package and mix it in at half strength). Seedlings don’t really need fertilizer until they get their first or second set of true leaves, and you can’t fertilize with full-strength fertilizer because you run the risk of burning the seedlings. Always use half strength when adding fertilizer to seed starting mix or when watering with fish emulsion.
I’ve also experimented with watering my seedlings with weak a fish emulsion every week or two instead of using Dr Earth Starter fertilizer. I prefer adding the starter fertilizer directly to my seed starting mix, it seems to give me better results and it saves me from remembering to add fish emulsion. Some people use this mix and add 30% peat, 30% vermiculite and 30% compost instead of a fertilizer (you can us perlite instead of vermiculite if you’d like, I don’t like perlite so I always use vermiculite). I don’t have a ton of compost so I save it and add it to the holes at planting time, I also use it in my homemade potting soil mix. Some people recommend only using sterilized compost or peat to start seeds, personally I would never sterilize my compost, pear or anything I’m using to grow plants, part of the value of is the microbes. But I also drink raw milk, so I’m a big believer in the beneficial microbe world.
The main reason I mix my own seed starting mix is to save money. I buy the peat moss and vermiculite at my local farm supply store (the drive-thru feed type store). It costs me about $25 for 8 cubic feet of final seed starting mix. I like to mix it up in small batches in plastic storage containers. I make sure to mix up a batch in the fall and store it in the basement for late winter seed starting mix.
Whether you mix your own, buy it in a bag, or use peat pellets, your seed starting medium will need to be wet before you can plant your seeds. It’s often difficult to get peat to absorb moisture if it’s really dry. The vermiculite or perlite helps it absorb moisture and using hot water is also very beneficial. I warm water in my small teakettle and pour it on the dry mix. I keep adding water till the tray feels heavy and the soil is nicely moistened. If I add too much water and there is some collecting in the bottom tray I usually wait an hour then pour out any excess water. I also like to wait a day before adding the seeds to allow some of the moisture to evaporate, too much moisture is the most common seed starting problem and it can lead to disease problems. Then I plant the seeds according to their needs.
What’s your favorite seed starting medium? Do you have better luck with one kind of soil? Do you mix your own?
The rest of the Seed Starting 101 Series
Why Start from Seed
Getting Started
Containers
Soil Mix
The Needs of Seeds
My Workflow
Diseases and Problems
Hardening Off
Transplanting
Learn More Each Season
Visit my Amazon store to see what seed starting supplies I like.
